An autumnal evening beneath the heavily-laden persimmon trees was the romantic notion dreamt up by the Perth Hills Futures committee – to not only celebrate this little-known fruit, but also consolidate their shared vision for the historically significant and prolifically productive hills region.
Parking amongst the magnificent rows in the Karragullen orchard, guests were invited to step, boots and all, into this unique microclimate. A winding journey via the muddy entry track led to the kind of breathtaking vista local orchardists no doubt take for granted. But set with twinkling lights, a roaring bonfire and a marvellous marquee, it was the scene for a most memorable night.
I admit to not being quite sure about the persimmon. Is it a tomato? Is a nectarine? Do you bite into it like an apple? Suffice to say, while certainly not claiming the expert status the Curtin research fellows seated next to me quite viably hold (three years and counting devoted to the fruit), I’m now well versed in the eating possibilities of the crisp and firm Fuyu and the squishy sweet flavour of the Hachiya.
Vincenzo Villetri, Slow Food Leader and chef of the evening explored the possibilities quite thoroughly, his roaring wood-fired oven divulging delicious delights throughout the evening. A bruschetta starter highlighted the crunchy tartness of the Chinese cultivar – with fruit sourced from Spring Hill Orchard. A savory sauce peppered with paprika was a welcome accompaniment to the pork and a sweet cinnamon infused puree, using cooked fruit from Karragullen Fruit Company, was the piece de resistance for the pillowy panna cotta dessert.
It wasn’t just the persimmon on display though, with the produce from many Western Australian producers well represented. Huge (putting my own yabbie dam to shame), gently-roasted marron from Jarradale made a decadent entrée on a bed of lemony risotto, and the cheese boards, which captured guests slowly rising from the table after the three course meal, delivered a range of artisan cheeses; from Cambray Cheese in Nannup, Kytren Goat Cheese in Gidgeganup and Local Goat in Gingin. A fig and sandalwood-nut encrusted bread, handcrafted with Willgrow flour and a surprise delivery of freshly roasted Karragullen chestnuts teamed with the tantalising local port ensured animated discussions continued long after the tables were cleared.
The delicious banquet, and the well-chosen wines were a wonderful lubricant for discussion, and by the main meal, lively discourse on food security, agritourism possibilities and export issues was well underway. Mingling with the hills advocates, growers and guests, the Minister for Food and Agriculture, MLC Jackie Jarvis and Hon Andrew Hastie, Member for Canning, made their commitments to preserving the heritage and cultivating the future of the Perth Hills reassuringly clear.
In the current food climate of high imports and supermarket-driven, high volume food production, the evening was a tasty reminder to look more closely at the special offerings of our peri-urban regions. If this is a taste of the Perth hills future, then I’m looking forward to finding out what’s next on the menu!
