If you’ve ever wondered why French baguettes and Danish pastries have a certain ‘Je ne sais quoi’ the answer is not simply your rose-coloured travel glasses, but more complex – in carbohydrates that is.
I’ve only recently learned that the reason the French not only boast the best cheeses (that’s due to their unique pasteurisation laws – or lack of them), but the best breads as well, has a lot to do with the protein levels of their flour – and I just thought it was just the effect of all those fabulous rolling lavender fields and picturesque chateaux!
Here in WA our wheat is grown mainly for export, with noodle flour the primary finished product of our local grains. The protein requirement for noodles is low – around 9% – so most of our wheat, grown on marginal soils, is ideal – and our huge capacity is perfect for the Asian market. However, in order to make really good bread, I’m told you need a specific kind of flour, ideally with a high protein level (apparently it’s all to do with stretchability – way beyond this non-baker’s dough-making prowess).
The topic was certainly the favoured hors d’oeuvre at the Slow Food Pizza and Dessert evening held at the Naked Fox on Sunday 16 April, where Valken de Villiers (owner of Willgrow Flour) shared his mission to grow a very high protein grain, then stone mill it onsite at his Gingin property to create a product resembling European-style flour. Valken was featured on our cover last August when we discovered this incredibly sustainable product, with a very low environmental footprint, right on our doorstep.
Guests at the event were able to taste the difference themselves by sampling a wonderful array of gourmet goodies made with the flour, including woodfired pizzas made by Vincenzo from the Slow Food group and apple galettes and custard profiteroles made by Meg of Empire Pastry (see below for one of Meg’s recipes!). Oh là là is all I can say!
Speaking at the event, Valken explained, “Current wheat crops are designed for mass production, and the average acceptable protein level is around 9-10%. In Europe 15 or 16% is normal, and what is required to make a quality bread. Recently our flour has been tested at 14.8% protein – a really good result!”
Slow Food leader and chef Vincenzo Villetri agreed – saying he loved cooking with Willgrow Flour. “It is a very nice product to use, and good to work with. But for me, it’s the really exceptional flavour which brings back memories of Europe and the breads we used to make there.”
It certainly makes a wonderful pizza, something I may have slightly overindulged in on the night! But who can blame me – it doesn’t just taste good – it’s good for the environment too! As Edith says, – Non, je ne regrette rien!
